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Dried Fish Matters: The e-book

We have the great pleasure of announcing, on behalf of the editors and authors, publication of the full and final version of the first DFM e-book to coincide with World Fisheries Day 2023!

The full book is freely available in two downloadable sizes at https://tbtiglobal.net/dried-fish-matters-e-book/.

We would like to express our deep gratitude to TBTI Global and, in particular, Vesna Kereži for her editorial acumen and Ratana Chuenpagdee for having suggested the idea for the book in the first place.

Exploring the Social Economy of Dried Fish

This eclectic edited volume is the outcome of a project with transdisciplinary co-learning ambitions. A first idea for this work emerged from a series of Dried Fish Matters Partnership transdisciplinary roundtables at the MARE “People and the Sea” Conference in 2021. As we shared our experiences of learning about dried fish value chains, we were energized by the discussion of the various incomplete experiments, partial successes, and unanswered questions within our work, all of which signalled vitality in our research-in-progress. But we sensed regret that much of this exciting yet “messy” work of exploring new categories of knowledge, as we were doing with dried fish, might never make its way into print. Indeed, failures tend to be obscured in academic publications – the false starts and dead ends being relegated to a sentence or two in a “methodology” section, thence entering the black boxes of scientific knowledge. In an attempt to capture the excitement of the collaborative learning process, along with the evocative indeterminacy of the work-in-progress, our group agreed to prepare an experimental volume that could highlight the process – rather than the results – of our investigations into dried fish value chains.

Co-authored, co-editored, collaboratively reviewed and transdisciplinary – in many ways this work fits the template of the scholarly edited volume. At the same time, it embraces the unfinished and inconclusive: in our call for contributions, we invited authors to describe preliminary results, reflect on the research process, invite contemplation by readers, present field notes or raw data, or convey the original words and works of research participants or collaborators. It is also a work that, like the partnership from which it arises, aims to navigate the boundary between academic and practising communities. While some chapters are presented in a relatively familiar academic style, others more enthusiastically take up the invitation to work outside the boundaries of scholarly convention. The book includes photo-essays, recipes, stories, conversations, and even reflections by contributing researchers on their own taste for dried fish. Many of these contributions might be viewed as an intermediate stage of scholarship – more refined than fieldnotes, less so than a journal article – or as essays in the original sense of the unfinished, imperfect “attempt” at addressing a subject, akin to the musical or artistic study or étude.

Co-learning

This book was partly conceived as an experiment in co-learning, as suggested to us by the experience of Too Big to Ignore (TBTI). Co-learning is a term used by TBTI as part of the “transdisciplinary (TD) co-production” framework, defined by Polk (2015) as a form of problem-based learning that includes both practitioners and researchers throughout the knowledge generation process.

This book is the product of several interconnected co-learning processes, including an overarching effort to demystify the learning process at work in our own project on dried fish. The SSHRC Partnership Grants scheme, which has funded this work, is intended to foster mutual co-operation, sharing of intellectual leadership, and the formalization of partnerships in which collaborative learning can occur across different institutions. 

Twenty-six of the individual chapters in this volume are multi-authored, while the remaining chapters also reflect co-learning processes – as attempts to synthesize groups of chapters, analyze information prepared by project research teams, or suggest novel research approaches in conversation with other authors.

The collective editorial work that followed each set of manuscript submissions has also provided an important space for co-learning. The first thing that some of us learned was how much people really like dried fish in South and South-East Asia. Although most of us grew up in countries where dried fish was a common part of the diet, we found that dried fish is of broader importance than we had assumed, and by interacting with the authors of different chapters we were able to encourage different themes to arise. 

Playful writing

We hope that the e-book format, embraced as a polyvocal work that avoids the “gatekeeping” of scholarly apparatus, has allowed new voices to be heard – including those of students, practitioners, and researchers from the Global South, but also those who make a living from dried fish. The section “Food, life, and stories” includes stories from dried fish processors and vendors, an artist and a poet, and recipes shared from the families of researchers themselves. As Ratana Chuenpagdee (one of our editors) commented, this project has demonstrated that research can be playful, creative, and fun. It has provided an opportunity for people to provide their own ideas about why dried fish matters, and to talk about it in their own ways. We did not anticipate when DFM started that the passion expressed by so many consumers for the taste of dried fish would be mirrored in the enthusiasm for the topic by participants in the project. 

Making sense of Dried Fish

The book was not originally planned in the design of the Dried Fish Matters project, but as an emergent initiative it succeeded at catalyzing genuine partnership in ways that surpassed our expectations. It also created a space for academic researchers, at the core of our network, to reinforce community connections. All chapters in this book were peer-reviewed by editors and other colleagues, yet we deliberately framed this process as one of knowledge sharing – and co-learning – rather than evaluation of merit. As we encouraged the inclusion of “raw” field notes, stories, transcripts, and images, the finished work presents a collection of disparate pieces, a great number of which draw on visual forms of representation, which we have assembled into the three main themes of “food, life, and stories”, “describing dried fish value chains”, and “co-learning”.

While our brief synthesis chapters draw attention to the interconnections between the pieces in each of these sections, we hope this book will inspire readers to reflect on how our stories, recipes, essays, and photographs about dried fish fit together in other ways, encouraging us all to think further about the value and challenges present in dried fish value chains – and why, fundamentally, dried fish matters.

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Two new presentations of findings from Bangladesh and the Philippines by DFM PhD students

Two recent presentations by DFM-supported students, Md Mahfuzar Rahman and Jessie Varquez, at major conferences illuminated critical facets of the dried fish industry.

At the American Anthropological Association (AAA) – Canadian Anthropology Society (CASCA) Annual Meeting 2023 in Toronto, Canada, Md Mahfuzar Rahman, a PhD Candidate from the University of Manitoba, addressed a key paradox in dried fish production in Bangladesh. Rahman’s presentation titled “Reconciling quality and affordability: tackling the dual challenge of price escalation and quality assurance in dried fish for enhanced nutrition security in Bangladesh” resonated with participants in the Foodscapes in Transition session. His analysis highlighted the struggles faced by Bangladesh’s dried fish sector to develop strategies to improve quality in the context of soaring costs, thin margins, and socio-economic complexities. Rahman showed how compromises in production methods not only jeopardize the industry’s sustainability but also endanger the health of consumers reliant on this vital nutrition source.

For conference details, AAA-CASCA Annual Meeting 2023

On the other side of the globe, at the 45th International Conference of Ugnayang Pang-Aghamtao (UGAT/Anthropological Association of the Philippines), Jessie Varquez, also a PhD Candidate from the University of Manitoba, presented a paper entitled “Byang sang Danggit (Home of Rabbitfish): local knowledge, coastal ecology, and governmentality in Human-Rabbitfish Relations on Bantayan Island.” Varquez’s presentation delved into the intersections of livelihoods, ecology, and governmentality in the social wellbeing of dried fish actors on the island.

For conference details, the 45th International Conference of Ugnayang Pang-Aghamtao

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Gender Analysis of Dried Fish Consumption Among Myanmar Migrants in Mahachai Subdistrict, Samut Sakhon Province, Thailand: A Study by Nang Lun Kham Synt

Migration is a complex journey, encompassing the physical relocation and the transformation of daily habits and dietary preferences. Amidst the intricate web of adjustments that Myanmar migrants navigate upon settling in Thailand, a study by Nang Lun Kham Synt, a DFM-supported Asian Institute Technology (AIT) graduate, sheds light on an unexpected constant in their lives: dried fish consumption. The research conducted among the Myanmar migrants in Mahachai, Thailand, revealed intriguing insights into their dietary habits and the great significance of dried fish in their daily meals. The study calls for a nuanced approach to understanding and supporting the dietary preferences of migrating communities.

Despite the upheaval caused by migration, both male and female Myanmar migrants continue to embrace dried fish as a staple in their diet, echoing the tastes and flavors of their home country. Consumption of dried fish meals by the migrants serves as a vital component in fostering and sustaining bonds and interaction with their home country and culture. Dried shrimp and fish paste emerged as favourites among the migrants, providing convenience and flavor to their dishes. Intriguingly, while the average quantity consumed by male and female migrants was relatively similar, men emphasized more than women how dried fish evoked feelings of nostalgia and homesickness. While factors like convenience, homesickness, and cultural taste influenced dried fish consumption, surprisingly, nutrition wasn’t the primary consideration for their choice of dried fish. 

For those interested, the thesis can be found at –

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Gender Analysis of Micro and Small-scale Dried Fish Business in Ayeyarwady Region, Myanmar: A Study by Myo Zaw Aung

DFM supported student Myo Zaw Aung’s compelling master’s thesis, completed in 2023 as part of his Master of Science program in Gender and Development Studies at the Asian Institute of Technology (AIT) under the supervision of Dr. Kyoko Kusakabe, provides a comprehensive insight into the gendered dimensions of Myanmar’s shrimp paste industry. His research sheds light on the complexities of gender inequality in the industry. It provides essential insights that can inform policies and initiatives to promote gender equity, enhance livelihoods, and foster sustainable development in Myanmar’s shrimp paste sector and beyond.

In Myanmar, the shrimp paste industry is a key part of the fisheries sector, with women comprising the majority of its workforce. However, gender-based limitations hinder the professional growth and opportunities available to women in this sector, perpetuating a noticeable barrier to women’s economic independence and overall wellbeing. Aung’s study examines the socio-economic factors that sustain this gender disparity. The research findings reveal a complex interplay of gender roles, labour division, market dynamics, capital access, and vulnerability, all of which have profound implications for the industry’s development and sustainability.

For those interested, the thesis is available in the DFM Zotero library.

Photo credits: Myo Zaw Aung

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Unveiling the Gender Dynamics of Prahok Production and Consumption: A Study by Uon Sokmoly

DFM supported student Uon Sokmoly’s compelling master’s thesis, completed in 2023 as part of her Master of Science program in Gender and Development Studies at the Asian Institute of Technology (AIT) under the supervision of Dr. Kyoko Kusakabe, provides a comprehensive insight into the gendered dimensions of Cambodia’s fermented fish paste (Prahok) industry. Her research, Gender Analysis of the Changes in Production and Consumption Patterns of Fermented Fish Paste (Prahok): A Case Study of Women Prahok Makers around Tonle Sap Lake, Cambodia, uncovers the intricate web of gender, tradition, and economic shifts surrounding the production and consumption of prahok.

Cambodia’s rich history is intrinsically linked with its freshwater fish products, serving as both a vital source of nutrition and income for its people. At the heart of this culinary tradition lies fermented fish paste, known as prahok, a cornerstone of Khmer cuisine. Prahok has been a staple in Cambodian households, cherished for its nutritional value and cultural significance. However, this traditional industry is undergoing a transformative shift; the Cambodian government’s recent relocation efforts for communities residing on the lake, coupled with declines in fish yields, the prahok landscape has faced unprecedented challenges.  Women who play a pivotal role in prahok production and consumption are at the center of this change. Sokmoly’s study investigates the multifaceted factors influencing changes in prahok production and consumption, encompassing shifts in food preferences, income generation, gender roles, and cultural norms. Sokmoly’s study serves as an invaluable contribution to the fields of gender studies, cultural preservation, and economic development and underscores the need for gender-responsive policies and support mechanisms to address the evolving challenges faced by women prahok makers.

For those interested, the thesis is available in the DFM Zotero library.

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DFM Publication

In their recent article, Dammed Waterways and a Colonial Legacy: Statutory Law-Making in the Conservancy of Indian Fisheries, 1867-1897, published in Global Environment, Sashi Sivramkrishna and Amlendu Jyothsi embark on a captivating historical journey, unravelling the complexities of colonial law-making in India during the late 19th century. The study meticulously traces the evolution of statutory law for the conservancy of Indian fisheries, challenging the conventional view of it as a straightforward transformation. Their study offers a nuanced perspective, highlighting that the development of laws was not a linear transformation but a multifaceted and intricate process.

From the earliest calls for fisheries conservancy in 1867 to the eventual passage of the Indian Fisheries Act in 1897, Sivramkrishna and Jyotshi navigate the intricate tapestry of colonial governance. These legal developments by the colonial government were not just administrative decisions but strategic moves aimed at legitimizing control over vital resources. The authors highlight the pivotal role played by individuals seeking recognition within this dynamic legal landscape. The study offers insights into the interplay of concerns over food security and the potential resistance of local populations, providing a rich understanding of the multifaceted factors that culminated in the eventful passage of the Indian Fisheries Act 1897. This article not only enriches our historical knowledge but also underscores the importance of local expertise and leadership in shaping policies, making it a must-read for anyone interested in the fascinating intricacies of colonial governance and conservation efforts in India during the colonial era.

For those interested, here is the link to the paper – Dammed Waterways and a Colonial Legacy: Statutory Law-Making in t…: Ingenta Connect

The paper can also be found in the DFM Zotero library.

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Navigating Challenges: How Myanmar’s Small-scale Dried Fish Producers Adapt to Crises

Myanmar’s dried fish industry has faced unprecedented challenges in recent years. DFM supported A Myint Zu to pursue a Master of Science in Gender and Development Studies at the Asian Institute of Technology (AIT) under the supervision of Dr. Kyoko Kusakabe. Myint Zu completed her program in 2023. Her master’s thesis, Assessing the impacts of triple crises on the men and women owned small-scale dried fish productions: a case study in Ayeyarwady region, Myanmar, revealed the intricate impacts of a triple crisis – the COVID-19 pandemic, political instability, and economic fluctuations – on small-scale dried fish production in the Ayeyarwady Region of Myanmar. Myint Zu’s study illuminates the resilience and adaptability of the small-scale dried fish sector in the face of adversity. As the crises disrupted travel, reduced demand and led to volatile prices, dried fish entrepreneurs showed remarkable adaptability and innovation. They diversified their income sources, adjusted prices, and altered their working hours to overcome these hurdles. Notably, the study revealed gender-specific differences in coping strategies driven by factors like market preferences, working capital, and risk management. Moreover, access to credit and trust played pivotal roles in shaping these strategies. These gender-specific coping strategies highlight the importance of understanding gender-specific impacts and tailoring interventions accordingly.

For those interested, the thesis is available in the DFM Zotero library.

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Celebrating Success: AIT Graduates Masters in Gender and Development Studies

Achieving a Master of Science degree is a significant milestone in academia. We are delighted to share the news that four Dried Fish Matters students, A Myint Zu, Nang Lun Kham Synt, Uon Sokmoly, and Myo Zaw Aung, have successfully completed their Master of Science in Gender and Development Studies from the Asian Institute of Technology (AIT), all under the expert guidance of Professor Kyoko Kusakabe. We extend our warmest congratulations to these trailblazers for their outstanding achievements.

Each of the students brings to light crucial findings from their research projects. A Myint Zu’s study takes us to Myanmar’s dried fish industry, emphasizing women’s vital yet often overlooked role. Despite relentless stresses, from political upheaval and conflict to the COVID-19 pandemic and energy crises causing operational and financial hardship, these small-scale dried fish producers have showcased remarkable resilience, adapting and diversifying sales methods and income sources in the face of challenges. Nang Lu Kham Synt’s (Ying’s) research sheds light on the dried fish consumption of Myanmar migrants in Thailand, showcasing their continued attachment to traditional dried fish preferences. Regardless of gender, these migrants continue to savour the tastes of home, highlighting the symbol of convenience, homesickness, and storability associated with dried fish. Uon Sokmoly’s work immerses us in Cambodia’s rich tradition of fish processing, particularly Prahok, revealing how government-led relocations are shaping the choices of women Prahok makers. The study underscores the intricate interplay between tradition, gender norms, and individual choices in the evolving world of Cambodian Prahok makers around Tonle Sap Lake. Lastly, Myo Zaw Aung’s research delves into Myanmar’s shrimp paste industry, uncovering gender-based limitations and advocating for informed policies to bridge the gender gap, fostering economic independence for women. These studies collectively shed light on pressing issues, from resilience in adversity to preserving tradition and pursuing gender equity. In the following weeks, we will share further details of each of the students’ remarkable research findings with you.