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Research

Dried Fish Matters: The e-book

We have the great pleasure of announcing, on behalf of the editors and authors, publication of the full and final version of the first DFM e-book to coincide with World Fisheries Day 2023!

The full book is freely available in two downloadable sizes at https://tbtiglobal.net/dried-fish-matters-e-book/.

We would like to express our deep gratitude to TBTI Global and, in particular, Vesna Kereži for her editorial acumen and Ratana Chuenpagdee for having suggested the idea for the book in the first place.

Exploring the Social Economy of Dried Fish

This eclectic edited volume is the outcome of a project with transdisciplinary co-learning ambitions. A first idea for this work emerged from a series of Dried Fish Matters Partnership transdisciplinary roundtables at the MARE “People and the Sea” Conference in 2021. As we shared our experiences of learning about dried fish value chains, we were energized by the discussion of the various incomplete experiments, partial successes, and unanswered questions within our work, all of which signalled vitality in our research-in-progress. But we sensed regret that much of this exciting yet “messy” work of exploring new categories of knowledge, as we were doing with dried fish, might never make its way into print. Indeed, failures tend to be obscured in academic publications – the false starts and dead ends being relegated to a sentence or two in a “methodology” section, thence entering the black boxes of scientific knowledge. In an attempt to capture the excitement of the collaborative learning process, along with the evocative indeterminacy of the work-in-progress, our group agreed to prepare an experimental volume that could highlight the process – rather than the results – of our investigations into dried fish value chains.

Co-authored, co-editored, collaboratively reviewed and transdisciplinary – in many ways this work fits the template of the scholarly edited volume. At the same time, it embraces the unfinished and inconclusive: in our call for contributions, we invited authors to describe preliminary results, reflect on the research process, invite contemplation by readers, present field notes or raw data, or convey the original words and works of research participants or collaborators. It is also a work that, like the partnership from which it arises, aims to navigate the boundary between academic and practising communities. While some chapters are presented in a relatively familiar academic style, others more enthusiastically take up the invitation to work outside the boundaries of scholarly convention. The book includes photo-essays, recipes, stories, conversations, and even reflections by contributing researchers on their own taste for dried fish. Many of these contributions might be viewed as an intermediate stage of scholarship – more refined than fieldnotes, less so than a journal article – or as essays in the original sense of the unfinished, imperfect “attempt” at addressing a subject, akin to the musical or artistic study or étude.

Co-learning

This book was partly conceived as an experiment in co-learning, as suggested to us by the experience of Too Big to Ignore (TBTI). Co-learning is a term used by TBTI as part of the “transdisciplinary (TD) co-production” framework, defined by Polk (2015) as a form of problem-based learning that includes both practitioners and researchers throughout the knowledge generation process.

This book is the product of several interconnected co-learning processes, including an overarching effort to demystify the learning process at work in our own project on dried fish. The SSHRC Partnership Grants scheme, which has funded this work, is intended to foster mutual co-operation, sharing of intellectual leadership, and the formalization of partnerships in which collaborative learning can occur across different institutions. 

Twenty-six of the individual chapters in this volume are multi-authored, while the remaining chapters also reflect co-learning processes – as attempts to synthesize groups of chapters, analyze information prepared by project research teams, or suggest novel research approaches in conversation with other authors.

The collective editorial work that followed each set of manuscript submissions has also provided an important space for co-learning. The first thing that some of us learned was how much people really like dried fish in South and South-East Asia. Although most of us grew up in countries where dried fish was a common part of the diet, we found that dried fish is of broader importance than we had assumed, and by interacting with the authors of different chapters we were able to encourage different themes to arise. 

Playful writing

We hope that the e-book format, embraced as a polyvocal work that avoids the “gatekeeping” of scholarly apparatus, has allowed new voices to be heard – including those of students, practitioners, and researchers from the Global South, but also those who make a living from dried fish. The section “Food, life, and stories” includes stories from dried fish processors and vendors, an artist and a poet, and recipes shared from the families of researchers themselves. As Ratana Chuenpagdee (one of our editors) commented, this project has demonstrated that research can be playful, creative, and fun. It has provided an opportunity for people to provide their own ideas about why dried fish matters, and to talk about it in their own ways. We did not anticipate when DFM started that the passion expressed by so many consumers for the taste of dried fish would be mirrored in the enthusiasm for the topic by participants in the project. 

Making sense of Dried Fish

The book was not originally planned in the design of the Dried Fish Matters project, but as an emergent initiative it succeeded at catalyzing genuine partnership in ways that surpassed our expectations. It also created a space for academic researchers, at the core of our network, to reinforce community connections. All chapters in this book were peer-reviewed by editors and other colleagues, yet we deliberately framed this process as one of knowledge sharing – and co-learning – rather than evaluation of merit. As we encouraged the inclusion of “raw” field notes, stories, transcripts, and images, the finished work presents a collection of disparate pieces, a great number of which draw on visual forms of representation, which we have assembled into the three main themes of “food, life, and stories”, “describing dried fish value chains”, and “co-learning”.

While our brief synthesis chapters draw attention to the interconnections between the pieces in each of these sections, we hope this book will inspire readers to reflect on how our stories, recipes, essays, and photographs about dried fish fit together in other ways, encouraging us all to think further about the value and challenges present in dried fish value chains – and why, fundamentally, dried fish matters.

Categories
Research

Two major new papers by DFM co-investigators on fish and nutrition

Ben Belton and Shakuntala Thilsted are co-authors on two major new papers that assess the contexts that shape how fish and aquatic products influence nutritional and economic outcomes for producers and consumers in Bangladesh and Myanmar. The Bangladesh paper looks at the importance of integrated aquaculture for economic and nutrition security. The Myanmar paper (a DFM output) analyzes the changing context of animal sourced foods, including aquatic foods, in Myanmar diets through analysis of nationally representative household consumption surveys.

Ignowski, Liz, Ben Belton, Hazrat Ali, and Shakuntala Haraksingh Thilsted. 2023. ‘Integrated Aquatic and Terrestrial Food Production Enhances Micronutrient and Economic Productivity for Nutrition-Sensitive Food Systems’. Nature Food, September. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43016-023-00840-8.

Scott, Jessica M., Ben Belton, Kristi Mahrt, Shakuntala H. Thilsted, and Jessica R. Bogard. 2023. ‘Food Systems Transformation, Animal-Source Foods Consumption, Inequality, and Nutrition in Myanmar’. Food Security, August. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12571-023-01380-6.

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Research

Two new DFM publications – July-August 2023

DFM is delighted to announce important new publications on the co-production of knowledge and just transitions in West Bengal’s dried fish sector and on the place of fish in nutrition transitions in Myanmar. Congratulations to the Ghosh, Mukherjee, Belton, Thilsted, and the other authors involved!

Ghosh, Raktima, Jenia Mukherjee, Aishik Bandyopadhyay, Subhradeep Chatterjee, Anuradha Choudry, Poulami Ghosh, Souradip Pathak, Amrita Sen, and Priyadarsini Sinha. 2023. ‘Analyzing Scenarios and Designing Initiatives toward Just Transitions: Coproducing Knowledge with(in) the Dried Fish Sector in the Indian Sundarbans’. Frontiers in Water 5. https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/frwa.2023.1043628.

Scott, Jessica M., Ben Belton, Kristi Mahrt, Shakuntala H. Thilsted, and Jessica R. Bogard. 2023. ‘Food Systems Transformation, Animal-Source Foods Consumption, Inequality, and Nutrition in Myanmar’. Food Security, August. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12571-023-01380-6.

Categories
Research

Recent DFM Publications

We would like to highlight five recent articles published by members of Dried Fish Matters.

Implications of utilization shifts of marine fish in India: a macrolevel empirical analysis is a collaboration between multiple members of DFM lead authored by Prasanna Surathkal. Accepted in December 2022, the article analyzes structural changes in aquaculture production that suggest an increase in the ratio of fish-for-feed to fish for human consumption. Results from the analysis indicate that the fish meal and fish oil (FMFO) market gains are made likely at the cost of the dried fish segment.

Small Fish Consumption in Rural Myanmar disaggregates fish consumption data based on quantity, species, and size of fish eaten, a level of detailed analysis rarely achieved in governmental level food consumption surveys. A contribution by Dr. Rizaldo and Dr. Belton of World Fish and Wae Win Khaing, a PhD student at the University of Manitoba, the research found that women in the Ayeyarwady Region in Myanmar tend to consume larger amounts of small fish which may contain higher level of micronutrients.

A social wellbeing approach to the gendered impacts of fisheries transition in Gujarat, India was authored by Dr. Rajib Biswal, a post-doctoral fellow at Memorial University, and Dr. Johnson of University of Manitoba, uses a social wellbeing approach to look at the gendered livelihoods effects of 70 years of fisheries development in the town of Saiyad Rajpara, Gujarat. The move away from a local subsistence economy to a market-oriented economy led to material improvements, but a more mixed effects on the social and subjective wellbeing of the residents. On aggregate, women’s wellbeing has improved in comparison to men’s during this period.

A popular article published in The News Minute by our partners in Karnataka, Dr. Jyotishi, Prasanna Surathkal of Azim Premji Foundation, and Dr. Bhatta of Snehakunja Trust highlights the effects of investments in private and large-scale fish production and the ever-increasing encroachment on the livelihoods of small-scale fish producers and processors. The article explains three areas of encroachment: development of ports and eco-tourism areas as physical space dispossession; underrepresentation in policy development as political and legal dispossessions; and finally, increasing focus on fishmeal production as livelihood dispossession.

Gendered dimensions of social wellbeing within dried fish value chains: insights from Sri Lanka is the latest publication in Dried Fish Matters. The publication, led by Dr. Galappaththi, looks at a central question in DFM, specifically on the subjective, relational, and material wellbeing contribution of the dried fish value chain. The research argued that these value chains are especially important in contributing to the wellbeing of marginalized people, especially women.

References by order of appearance

Surathkal, P., Jyotishi, A., Bhatta, R., Scholtens, J., Johnson, D., Mondal, G., & Gupta, P. (2023). Implications of utilization shifts of marine fish in India: a macro‑level empirical analysis. Reviews in Fish Biology and Fisheries. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1007/s11160-022-09752-5

Rizaldo, Q. V., Khaing, W. W., & Belton, B. (2023). Small fish consumption in rural Myanmar. Maritime Studies, 22(13). https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1007/s40152-023-00304-6

Biswal, R., & Johnson, D. S. (2023). A social wellbeing approach to the gendered impacts of fisheries transition in Gujarat, India. Maritime Studies, 22. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1007/s40152-023-00299-0

Jyotishi, A., Surathkal, P., & Bhatta, R. (2023, April 13). Tragedy of the commons: In Karnataka, small-scale fishers are losing their foothold. The News Minute. https://www.thenewsminute.com/article/tragedy-commons-karnataka-small-scale-fishers-are-losing-their-foothold-175830

Galappaththi, M., N. Weeratunge, D. Armitage, and A.M. Collins. “Gendered Dimensions of Social Wellbeing within Dried Fish Value Chains: Insights from Sri Lanka.” Ocean and Coastal Management 240 (June 1, 2023). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocecoaman.2023.106658.

Categories
News Research

Dried Fish: The Journal Article

We are very excited to announce the publication of “Dried fish at the intersection of food science, economy, and culture: A global survey” in the journal Fish and Fisheries. This major literature survey from the Dried Fish Matters project is the result of a collaborative effort to catalogue and analyze more than 1100 publications directly concerning dried fish.

Our survey demonstrates the important and varied nature of the contributions that dried fish make to the food and nutrition security, health, livelihoods, and social and cultural well-being of people around the world. Among the three thematic categories of food, economic, and cultural values that we elaborate in this survey, we find the dried fish literature most heavily focused on food value, followed by economic value. The importance of social relational and aesthetic values of dried fish for consuming populations thus merit much greater attention. Other major lacunae are the ecological relations on which dried fish economies depend and attention to questions of political economy and governance that are required to assure the sector continues to supply adequate, nutritious, and safe foods, in ways that are sustainable and just. Without the sustainability of fisheries as a natural resource, all values of dried fish are undermined.

Thematic clusterThemesExamples of subthemesItems in dried fish sample
Food valueFood scienceFood and nutrition security and healthFood safetyChemical analysisDerivative product development75% (N = 851)
Economic valueValue chains, economy, and labourEcologyInternational tradeLabourValue chainsMicroeconomicsPolitical ecology23% (N = 264)
Cultural heritage valueCulture and social relationsHistory and changeCultureSocial relationsWell-beingFood and cookingGender18% (N = 208)
Thematic hierarchy. Percentages indicate the proportion of all references that are tagged with themes that fall within the thematic cluster. As references may be given multiple tags from across the thematic areas, percentages in this column do not total 100%

This Open Access paper is available to read and download free of charge from publisher website.

The paper is accompanied by several online resources, including the active Zotero library, full bibliographic dataset for our dried fish sample, source graphs generated by an online query engine, and software tools developed for the review.

Thematic intersections in the literature on dried fish: Major themes and illustrative questions suggested by the literature survey (click to enlarge)

Abstract

Dried fish—here defined broadly as aquatic animals preserved using simple techniques, such as sun-drying, salting, fermentation, and smoking that permit storage as foods at ambient temperature for extended periods without specialized packaging—have received little direct attention in fisheries research. This lack of visibility belies their historical and contemporary importance. Prior to the introduction of refrigeration, dried fish were the main form in which fisheries catches were traded and consumed. Dried fish products remain a core component of production, trade, diets, and cuisines across the world, particularly in the Global South. The dried fish sector provides employment for millions of people, particularly women, who comprise most of the fish-drying workforce in many locations. However, the sector also confronts and creates significant challenges including food safety concerns and exploitative labour conditions. This paper is the first systematic assessment of the global literature on dried fish, comprised of a sample of >1100 references. In contrast to the general fisheries literature, which is dominated by studies of ecology and governance and focusses mainly on primary production, the dried fish literature is dominated by studies from food science and concentrates on the processing segment of fish value chains. As such, it offers valuable reference point for fisheries research, which is becoming increasingly attentive to food systems. This paper uncovers a wealth of insights buried in this largely unheralded literature, and identifies key thematic intersections, gaps and research questions that remain to be addressed in the study of dried fish.

Reference

Belton, Ben, Derek Johnson, Eric Thrift, Jonah Olsen, Mostafa Hossain, and Shakuntala Thilsted. 2022. “Dried Fish at the Intersection of Food Science, Economy, and Culture: A Global Survey.” Fish and Fisheries. https://doi.org/10.1111/faf.12664.

Categories
Research

Institutional Context of Marine Fisheries in Gujarat

This paper is the first among the series of analytical write-ups that we plan to bring out as part of the Gujarat regional component of the Dried Fish Matters research project. In this paper we review some of the major policies and institutional arrangements that are critical for understanding the social economy of fisheries, especially marine fisheries, in the state. The paper is divided into two sections. In section one, we present a brief overview of the trajectory of the evolution of fisheries sector policies at the national level since they broadly define the context of our discussion. In section two, we will elaborate on the Gujarat case. Our focus here will be to interrogate the broader philosophy that guides Gujarat’s approach to fisheries development in recent years.

Location of Gujarat in India. Wikimedia Commons / File:Gujarat_in_India.svg / CC-BY-SA 3.0.

Gujarat is a major maritime state in India with a long and rich history of trans-oceanic trade relationships. The state has also been a major marine fish producer in India ever since it was reorganized as a separate linguistic state in 1960. It is one of the last maritime states to have enacted the marine fishery regulation focused on the development of the sector. The Gujarat Fisheries Act 2003 provides for the protection, conservation, and development of fisheries as well as regulation of fishing in the inland and territorial waters along the coastline of the state.

The Office of the Commissioner of Fisheries, located within the Department of Agriculture, Farmers’ Welfare, and Cooperation of the government of Gujarat, is the nodal department for the regulation and development of fishing activities in the state. The Department regulates the registration of fishing boats (as per Merchant Shipping Act, 1958) and granting of fishing licenses (as per Gujarat Fisheries Act, 2003).

The Gujarat Fisheries Central Co-operative Association Limited (GFCCA), the apex body of the fishermen cooperatives in the state, is the main agency that implements the fishery development projects in the state and the chief conduit for the flow of governmental and institutional assistance to the fisherfolk.            

An important policy initiative taken by the state government that can positively impact Gujarat’s fisheries industry is the framing of a policy for agro-business development (the Comprehensive Agro-Business (AB) Policy – 2016-21) and the Chief Minister’s Mission on Food Processing. The CMFP mission underscores the importance of food and nutritional security and food safety and promises to add capacities to the system through capital infusion, technology transfer, skill upgradation as also enhance employment opportunities on a wider scale.  This is an opportune moment to get some of the long-neglected concerns of small-scale producers engaged in low-end processing of fish, including curing/drying included in the state’s agenda.


You can find a list of all reports published by Dried Fish Matters on our “Working Papers” page: https://driedfishmatters.org/pub/dfm-working-papers.html.

Categories
Research

Key locations of dried fish processing and trade in Bangladesh

The DFM Bangladesh team, consisting of researchers from Bangladesh Agricultural University and Jahangirnagar University, has produced a study mapping the key locations for dried fish processing and trade in Bangladesh.

The dried fish sector of Bangladesh contributes significantly to the country’s economy. Processing and trading activities are spread across Chittagong, Cox’s Bazar, Sylhet-Mymensingh-Comilla and Khulna-Barisal-Patuakhali regions. The DFM Bangladesh research team visited each of these sites to identify its overall importance and unique characteristics.  

Key locations include Nazirar Tek (marine processing), Asadgonj (trade), the drying yards of the Sunamgonj Haor basin and Chalan Beel areas (freshwater drying), and Lalpur (the largest fermentation site). These sites were recommended for in-depth research on the dried fish economy in relation to factors including production/trade volume, stakeholders involved, and cross-cutting issues like gender, labour, ecological sustainability, and vulnerability. Dublar Char was recommended for follow-up research due to its remoteness, production volume, and distinct issues of child and bonded labour.

File:DFM RPT BGL-Key-location-report 2022-03 1.png
Key locations of fish processing and trade in Bangladesh

Key findings

There are four general categories of dried fish processing and trading sites in Bangladesh.

  • Drying (marine fish) yards: Marine drying operations are referred to as “Khola” or “Kila”, which often shift based on raw material availability, accessibility, landing facilities, and other physical conveniences. The drying season varies slightly from site to site.
  • Drying (freshwater) yards: Women and children labourers are widely involved in the fish processing process. Many of these workers remain unpaid, especially in the case of household labour supporting dangi owners or managers.
  • Fermenting (marine & freshwater) yards: There are hundreds of women mainly involved in processing puti (cutting and gutting) in Lalpur.
  • Trading (marine & freshwater) centers: Dried fish produced in Bangladesh is traded through a relatively small number of assembly markets.

Unequal power relationships in the dried fish value chain is a significant area of concern to be addressed in future studies. Producers have little to no influence over marketing and supply, which are controlled by large-scale traders, brokers, and supermarket companies. Price distortions in the domestic market, created by these large-scale actors, erode profitability for primary producers.

Marine fish drying on stages in Nazirar Tek. Photo – MH

Reference

Hossain, M A R, Mirza Taslima Sultana, Sayeed Ferdous, Md. Samsul Alam, Rasheda Akhtar, Md. Siddiqur Rahman, Md. Shahjahan, and Mahmudul H Sumon. 2022. “Key Locations: Dry Fish Processing and Trading in Bangladesh.” Working Paper 10. Dried Fish Matters. The University of Manitoba / Bangladesh Agricultural University / Jahangirnagar University. 

Categories
Research

Dried fish in West Bengal, India

The history of dried fish with its significance in the Bengal area starts from the medieval era. Dried fish got to India via the port cities such as Bombay, Visakhapatnam and Chennai by the inter-state and intra-state trades with the railways in the mid-19th century. Popularly known as ‘Shutki’, dried fish is emblematic to the cultural oneness of (dis)integrated Bengal wherein Bengalis either relished dried fish with uncompromising endearment or rejected it because of the repugnant odor of a decaying fish.

The scoping research focused on two coastal districts of West Bengal: South 24 Parganas and East Medinipur.

Key findings

Small-scale fishers and labourers from neighbouring villages convene to work at camps known as “shabars”. Workers at these camps come from diverse social backgrounds. Women at these camps are often engaged through exploitative “no-work-no-pay” contracts and do not receive additional payment for overtime labour.

At Fraserguni – women workers are sorting fishes. Source: Raktima Ghosh

The Egra market in East Medinipur is the largest dried fish market of West Bengal. Consumers prefer unsalted dried fish, and they are willing to pay for hygienically prepared dried fish with desirable features.

The makeshift practices of fish drying have resulted in a condition of “making a living in transience” which necessitates ongoing adaptations. Socially and culturally significant events are focal points in the system of dry fish production, despite not being recognized by the formal administrative and legal systems.

While there is documented evidence that indigenous fish species are in decline due to commercial overfishing and unsustainable processing, the onus is borne by artisanal small-scale fishers, who face legal barriers, challenges and often outright prohibition of their established practices.

Fish drying arrangements at Baliara shabar in Frasergunj village, Indian Sundarbans. The Ganga temple is socially and territorially a part of the shabar. Source: Raktima Ghosh.

Land tenure is a dominant concern for dried fish producers in West Bengal.

Recommendations

The report recommends co-management, co-monitoring, and partnership as imperatives within formal dried fish management to generate species recovery and enhance sustainability of the dried fish system. The authors also advise an Interactive Governance approach to effectively identify and support opportunities in the dried fish sector of West Bengal.

Reference

Ghosh, Raktima, Jenia Mukherjee, Amrita Sen, Souradip Pathak, Anuradha Choudry, and Shreyashi Bhattacharya. 2022. “Dried Fish in West Bengal, India: Scoping Report.” DFM Working Papers. The University of Manitoba & Indian Institute of Technology Kharagpur.

Team IIT Kharagpur and Sundarban Jana Sramjibi Manch (SJSM) in conversation with inhabitants of Tipligheri village (Gosaba block) during their January field visit at the Sundarbans.