Categories
Conferences News

DFM participated in TBTI’s first National Symposium on Small-Scale Fisheries in the Philippines

The Dried Fish Matters (DFM) team, represented by Dr. Derek Johnson, DFM Project Director and Professor of Anthropology at the University of Manitoba (UM), and Jessie Varquez, DFM student and PhD candidate in anthropology at UM, participated in the First Philippines Small-Scale Fisheries National Symposium (PSSFNS). Held from October 16-18, 2024, at the University of the Philippines Visayas (UPV) in Iloilo City, the symposium was organized by Too Big To Ignore (TBTI) Philippines and chaired by Professor Alice Joan Ferrer of UPV, who also serves as Executive Director of TBTI Philippines.

The symposium brought together around 600 participants, including fishers, academics, researchers, artists, advocates, NGO workers, students, government officials, and other stakeholders in small-scale fisheries (SSF). Plenary sessions covered insights from fisherfolk, fisheries managers, NGOs, development partners, and scientists. Seven themes structured the parallel sessions, focusing on inland and marine SSF, SSF management and governance, SSF economics, socio-cultural aspects of SSF, SSF resilience to climate change, gender in SSF, and SSF technology and innovation. The program also featured special sessions on post-harvest topics, a book launch, and discussions on the Philippine National Plan of Action for SSF Guidelines, along with poster presentations and student and vlog competitions.

Dr. Johnson’s presentation, titled “Moving Downstream in Small-Scale Fisheries Research: Dried Fish in Asia,” was co-authored with Jessie Varquez and aligned with the SSF economics theme. He discussed a shift in social science research on SSF that reorients focus from harvesting to downstream segments of the fisheries value chain. The presentation posed a central question: What does this shift imply for the concept of SSF, and how does it redefine production not merely as extraction but as processing and trade?

Highlighting the DFM project as an example of this downstream focus, Dr. Johnson emphasized the themes of rootedness, relationships, and craft. He illustrated these ideas through the case of boneless danggit (dried rabbitfish) from the central Philippines. The presentation argued that, by challenging the conventional notion of “small” in downstream SSF, it becomes clear that SSF is, in fact, complex and, indeed, “too big to ignore.”

Dr. Derek Johnson (Photo credits: Jessie Varquez)

Jessie Varquez presented a part of his ongoing dissertation research titled “Punot (Fish Corrals) as Enduring Structures in the Coastal Fisheries of Bantayan Island,” co-authored with Dr. Derek Johnson. This presentation, featured in the panel on technology and innovation in small-scale fisheries (SSF), examined the vital role of fish corrals—an ancient fishing technology in Southeast Asia—through the case study of Bantayan Island in the Philippines. The presentation framed punot, the local term for fish corrals in Bantayan, as enduring structures for two primary reasons. Spatially, punot are significant due to the sheer number installed across intertidal flats and reef edges, shaping both navigation and fishing practices along the coast. Socially, they endure through the knowledge, materials, and practices that deeply influence the lives of coastal communities. Punot’s importance goes beyond immediate food security for coastal communities, extending to the downstream activities of dried fish processing, which involve a network of actors—especially women and children in these households.In highlighting punot as essential and enduring structures, Jessie concluded that they, too, are “too big to ignore.”   

Jessie Varquez presenting his research (Photo credits: Girlie Fariola)

Reflecting on his participation at the symposium as part of DFM Philippines, here’s what Jessie said: “Participating in this conference is momentous and enriching, not just for me but also for DFM. It’s a milestone because we participated in the first-ever national symposium on small-scale fisheries in the Philippines. We were enriched not only in meeting researchers with the same enthusiasm and interests for small-scale fisheries but also in interacting with conference participants from diverse orientations. I also think that DFM has positioned itself as a potential collaborator and knowledge hub in the ecology of Philippine small-scale fisheries research and networks.”

Aside from his panel presentation, Dr Derek Johnson also spoke at the opening program of the conference, where he represented TBTI Global and delivered the message on behalf of Professor Ratana Chuenpagdee, the TBTI Director. For representing TBTI Global, Derek was presented with a painting depicting SSF as a token of gratitude. In return, Derek has also furnished a copy of Dried Fish Matters: Exploring the Social Economy of Dried Fish, a key book publication of the DFM project, to the conference organizers.

(Photo credits: University of Philippines Visayas)

As the DFM project moves into its Phase 2 work across South and Southeast Asia, we are committed to engaging in policy advocacy and outreach conversations, such as those at the TBTI Philippines Symposium. The work of DFM scholars and researchers like Jessie is crucial in amplifying the multifaceted challenges and opportunities within the dried fish economy in small-scale fisheries in the Philippines and the wider region.

Categories
News Research

New DFM Thesis Sheds Light on the Nutritional Value and Safety Issues of Dried Fish in Bangladesh 

Huan Sun, a DFM student, recently published her M.Sc. thesis titled “Nutritional Composition of Dried Fishes from Bangladesh and Functional Properties of their Protein Isolates.” Her research provides valuable insights into the nutritional profile and potential applications of dried fish in Bangladesh. Huan conducted her Master’s research under the supervision of Dr. Rotimi Aluko from the Department of Food and Human Nutritional Sciences at the University of Manitoba. Her thesis examining committee included Dr. Derek Johnson from the Department of Anthropology and Dr. Alphonsus Utioh from Food and Human Nutritional Sciences. Huan successfully defended her thesis on May 8, 2024. 

Huan’s research investigated seven different species of dried fish collected from Cox’s Bazar, Dhaka, Mymensingh, and Sylhet. Key findings reveal that the White Sardine (Escualosa thoracata) and Ganges River Sprat (Corica soborna) are promising protein sources, containing over 75% protein and high levels of essential amino acids, including beneficial omega-3 fatty acids such as EPA and DHA. Both species are also rich in vitamin B12, making them excellent options for addressing nutritional deficiencies. However, challenges such as elevated heavy metal levels and high cholesterol content in some species—particularly the Ganges River Sprat—raise concerns about consumer safety. In her research, Huan also explored the functional properties of dried fish protein isolates (DFPIs) from Dhaka. The study found that these isolates exhibited excellent solubility, heat stability, and emulsifying properties, indicating their potential use as food ingredients in the industry. 

This thesis research is a significant contribution to DFM’s Working Group 2 (Food and Nutrition Security) and supports the ongoing Phase 2 efforts of the DFM Bangladesh team to address dried fish contamination and safety challenges through public policy advocacy. Additionally, the findings add to the growing body of evidence regarding the potential of dried fish to enhance nutrition security in Bangladesh, where it is a vital part of the diet. 

We asked Huan about her experience conducting this research as part of the DFM project and her thoughts on its impact. Here’s what she shared: 

“My hometown is a small inland city. Being far from the ocean, I’ve had very few opportunities to learn about dried fish. Working with Dried Fish Matters has given me a new understanding of the importance of dried fish beyond my own culture. There are many types of dried fish, and their preparation and consumption exhibit both commonalities and unique characteristics across different cultures. As I’ve learned more about dried fish, I’ve come to see that it is not only a representation of distinct civilizations but also a crucial solution to the ‘invisible hunger’ prevalent among the poor.  

A significant number of consumers in developing regions like South Asia, India, and Africa rely on dried fish, especially poorer populations. The iron, calcium, zinc, and essential amino acids found in dried fish are nutrients they urgently need. However, the controversial production environment raises concerns about food safety. Water pollution, pests, microbial infections, and the misuse of veterinary drugs overshadow dried fish’s reputation as a nutritious food. My thesis addresses these concerns by investigating the nutritional value and pollutant composition of dried fish. As a food science student with a sense of social responsibility, I hope my research contributes to finding solutions for safe and scientifically-based nourishment for disadvantaged communities.” 

Huan will remain an integral part of the Dried Fish Matters project as she embarks on her PhD under the supervision of Dr. Rotimi Aluko at the University of Manitoba. Her Master’s thesis, along with her ongoing PhD research, plays a crucial role in advancing DFM’s mission to assess the nutritional value of dried fish and elevate its importance in promoting nutritional security and well-being. 

Huan’s thesis has been published and is available here. 

Categories
News Research

New Study Reviews Gender Equality and Social Justice Impacts of Post-Harvest Fish Processing Technologies

A recent review article published in Nature Food explores how post-harvest aquatic food processing technologies affect gender equality and social justice. The study emphasizes that many of these technologies disproportionately impact women in the seafood sector, who are often involved in labour-intensive roles like fish drying and cleaning. While new technologies can improve food quality and safety, they risk reinforcing gender inequalities unless social and cultural factors are addressed. To ensure equitable benefits, gender-sensitive policies are crucial for supporting women’s contributions and rights in aquatic food systems.

Women dried fish labourers in Cox’s Bazar, Bangladesh (Image: Mahfuzar Rahman)

The findings of the Nature Food study align closely with the work of Dried Fish Matters, particularly within its Working Group 1 (Gender and Social Economy) and Working Group 3 (Policy, Governance, and Development). DFM’s social economy perspective emphasizes the need for gender-sensitive approaches to support women’s labour in the dried fish sector and advocate for equitable policies that address social justice and gender equality issues.

For more details, you can access the full review article here.

Categories
Research

DFM Photo Essay – African Great Lakes Dagaa in Transcontinental market networks: Socioeconomic and ecological impacts

The African Great Lakes (AGL) are among the world’s most important freshwater ecosystems, supporting fisheries that employ over 5 million people. Women represent the majority of traders and processors of fish. Small fish species, particularly in dried form, dominate the market supply. Known as Dagaa, these small fish species constitute 75% of the catches from nearly all African lakes. Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria are leading inland fish-producing lakes, contributing over 60% to the catches from both lakes, primarily involving Dagaa. Consequently, Dagaa are the second-most important species traded and consumed locally, regionally, and globally.

This photo essay maps out the value chain of the AGL small pelagic fish (Dagaa) from Lake Tanganyika (fished from Tanzania and DR Congo) and Lake Victoria (fished mainly from Uganda and Kenya). It traces the journey from the lakes in Africa to the plates in Canada, where they are primarily consumed by African diaspora communities. Additionally, this essay highlights the socioeconomic value and environmental impact of the transcontinental, women-led dried fish markets on people’s livelihoods and the sustainability of fisheries.

Categories
Research

DFM Working Paper – Dried Fish Consumption in Kerala: Patterns, Trends, and Preferences in the Indian Context

Fresh and dried marine fish are deeply ingrained in the culture and traditions of Kerala, a coastal state in southern India. The state’s proximity to the Arabian Sea, along with its backwaters and numerous rivers, has historically provided abundant access to various fish. This working paper examines the importance of dried fish within the non-vegetarian food basket of households in Kerala, focusing on preferences and consumption patterns among different geographical regions. It also explores the social and economic significance of dried fish, its health benefits, and the factors influencing its consumption. It highlights the role of dried fish in Kerala’s culinary traditions and its prominence in the local diet, providing insights into the extent of fish consumption and its cultural relevance in the state.


Categories
Research

Dried Fish Matters: The e-book

We have the great pleasure of announcing, on behalf of the editors and authors, publication of the full and final version of the first DFM e-book to coincide with World Fisheries Day 2023!

The full book is freely available in two downloadable sizes at https://tbtiglobal.net/dried-fish-matters-e-book/.

We would like to express our deep gratitude to TBTI Global and, in particular, Vesna Kereži for her editorial acumen and Ratana Chuenpagdee for having suggested the idea for the book in the first place.

Exploring the Social Economy of Dried Fish

This eclectic edited volume is the outcome of a project with transdisciplinary co-learning ambitions. A first idea for this work emerged from a series of Dried Fish Matters Partnership transdisciplinary roundtables at the MARE “People and the Sea” Conference in 2021. As we shared our experiences of learning about dried fish value chains, we were energized by the discussion of the various incomplete experiments, partial successes, and unanswered questions within our work, all of which signalled vitality in our research-in-progress. But we sensed regret that much of this exciting yet “messy” work of exploring new categories of knowledge, as we were doing with dried fish, might never make its way into print. Indeed, failures tend to be obscured in academic publications – the false starts and dead ends being relegated to a sentence or two in a “methodology” section, thence entering the black boxes of scientific knowledge. In an attempt to capture the excitement of the collaborative learning process, along with the evocative indeterminacy of the work-in-progress, our group agreed to prepare an experimental volume that could highlight the process – rather than the results – of our investigations into dried fish value chains.

Co-authored, co-editored, collaboratively reviewed and transdisciplinary – in many ways this work fits the template of the scholarly edited volume. At the same time, it embraces the unfinished and inconclusive: in our call for contributions, we invited authors to describe preliminary results, reflect on the research process, invite contemplation by readers, present field notes or raw data, or convey the original words and works of research participants or collaborators. It is also a work that, like the partnership from which it arises, aims to navigate the boundary between academic and practising communities. While some chapters are presented in a relatively familiar academic style, others more enthusiastically take up the invitation to work outside the boundaries of scholarly convention. The book includes photo-essays, recipes, stories, conversations, and even reflections by contributing researchers on their own taste for dried fish. Many of these contributions might be viewed as an intermediate stage of scholarship – more refined than fieldnotes, less so than a journal article – or as essays in the original sense of the unfinished, imperfect “attempt” at addressing a subject, akin to the musical or artistic study or étude.

Co-learning

This book was partly conceived as an experiment in co-learning, as suggested to us by the experience of Too Big to Ignore (TBTI). Co-learning is a term used by TBTI as part of the “transdisciplinary (TD) co-production” framework, defined by Polk (2015) as a form of problem-based learning that includes both practitioners and researchers throughout the knowledge generation process.

This book is the product of several interconnected co-learning processes, including an overarching effort to demystify the learning process at work in our own project on dried fish. The SSHRC Partnership Grants scheme, which has funded this work, is intended to foster mutual co-operation, sharing of intellectual leadership, and the formalization of partnerships in which collaborative learning can occur across different institutions. 

Twenty-six of the individual chapters in this volume are multi-authored, while the remaining chapters also reflect co-learning processes – as attempts to synthesize groups of chapters, analyze information prepared by project research teams, or suggest novel research approaches in conversation with other authors.

The collective editorial work that followed each set of manuscript submissions has also provided an important space for co-learning. The first thing that some of us learned was how much people really like dried fish in South and South-East Asia. Although most of us grew up in countries where dried fish was a common part of the diet, we found that dried fish is of broader importance than we had assumed, and by interacting with the authors of different chapters we were able to encourage different themes to arise. 

Playful writing

We hope that the e-book format, embraced as a polyvocal work that avoids the “gatekeeping” of scholarly apparatus, has allowed new voices to be heard – including those of students, practitioners, and researchers from the Global South, but also those who make a living from dried fish. The section “Food, life, and stories” includes stories from dried fish processors and vendors, an artist and a poet, and recipes shared from the families of researchers themselves. As Ratana Chuenpagdee (one of our editors) commented, this project has demonstrated that research can be playful, creative, and fun. It has provided an opportunity for people to provide their own ideas about why dried fish matters, and to talk about it in their own ways. We did not anticipate when DFM started that the passion expressed by so many consumers for the taste of dried fish would be mirrored in the enthusiasm for the topic by participants in the project. 

Making sense of Dried Fish

The book was not originally planned in the design of the Dried Fish Matters project, but as an emergent initiative it succeeded at catalyzing genuine partnership in ways that surpassed our expectations. It also created a space for academic researchers, at the core of our network, to reinforce community connections. All chapters in this book were peer-reviewed by editors and other colleagues, yet we deliberately framed this process as one of knowledge sharing – and co-learning – rather than evaluation of merit. As we encouraged the inclusion of “raw” field notes, stories, transcripts, and images, the finished work presents a collection of disparate pieces, a great number of which draw on visual forms of representation, which we have assembled into the three main themes of “food, life, and stories”, “describing dried fish value chains”, and “co-learning”.

While our brief synthesis chapters draw attention to the interconnections between the pieces in each of these sections, we hope this book will inspire readers to reflect on how our stories, recipes, essays, and photographs about dried fish fit together in other ways, encouraging us all to think further about the value and challenges present in dried fish value chains – and why, fundamentally, dried fish matters.

Categories
Research

Two major new papers by DFM co-investigators on fish and nutrition

Ben Belton and Shakuntala Thilsted are co-authors on two major new papers that assess the contexts that shape how fish and aquatic products influence nutritional and economic outcomes for producers and consumers in Bangladesh and Myanmar. The Bangladesh paper looks at the importance of integrated aquaculture for economic and nutrition security. The Myanmar paper (a DFM output) analyzes the changing context of animal sourced foods, including aquatic foods, in Myanmar diets through analysis of nationally representative household consumption surveys.

Ignowski, Liz, Ben Belton, Hazrat Ali, and Shakuntala Haraksingh Thilsted. 2023. ‘Integrated Aquatic and Terrestrial Food Production Enhances Micronutrient and Economic Productivity for Nutrition-Sensitive Food Systems’. Nature Food, September. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43016-023-00840-8.

Scott, Jessica M., Ben Belton, Kristi Mahrt, Shakuntala H. Thilsted, and Jessica R. Bogard. 2023. ‘Food Systems Transformation, Animal-Source Foods Consumption, Inequality, and Nutrition in Myanmar’. Food Security, August. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12571-023-01380-6.

Categories
Research

Two new DFM publications – July-August 2023

DFM is delighted to announce important new publications on the co-production of knowledge and just transitions in West Bengal’s dried fish sector and on the place of fish in nutrition transitions in Myanmar. Congratulations to the Ghosh, Mukherjee, Belton, Thilsted, and the other authors involved!

Ghosh, Raktima, Jenia Mukherjee, Aishik Bandyopadhyay, Subhradeep Chatterjee, Anuradha Choudry, Poulami Ghosh, Souradip Pathak, Amrita Sen, and Priyadarsini Sinha. 2023. ‘Analyzing Scenarios and Designing Initiatives toward Just Transitions: Coproducing Knowledge with(in) the Dried Fish Sector in the Indian Sundarbans’. Frontiers in Water 5. https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/frwa.2023.1043628.

Scott, Jessica M., Ben Belton, Kristi Mahrt, Shakuntala H. Thilsted, and Jessica R. Bogard. 2023. ‘Food Systems Transformation, Animal-Source Foods Consumption, Inequality, and Nutrition in Myanmar’. Food Security, August. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12571-023-01380-6.