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DFM Working Paper 13 Sheds Light on Karnataka’s Dried Fish Processing Landscape

The recently released Dried Fish Matters (DFM) Working Paper 13, “The Dried Fish Processors of Karnataka,” looks at the dynamics of Karnataka’s dried fish processing industry. The report is rich with figures that summarize the Karnataka Team’s data while reflecting on the implications of their findings about dried fish processing in the state. Led by researchers Amalendu Jyotishi, Ramachandra Bhatta, and Prasanna Surathkal, it sheds light on a tradition deeply rooted in Karnataka’s coastal heritage. The report is based on structured interviews with 271 processors in the state’s three coastal districts. It discusses the intricacies of dried fish production in relation to seasonality, geographical variation, primary species involved, and the crucial role played by women. Women constitute a staggering 95 percent of the surveyed processors! Mangaluru emerged as the primary production site, and anchovies and mackerel were the predominant species, constituting a substantial share of the total dried fish production volume. The study found dried fish producers to be predominantly necessity-driven entrepreneurs and shed light on processors’ socioeconomic challenges that often hinder their businesses’ growth.

Despite its historical significance and critical role in marginalized communities’ livelihoods, the dried fish processing segment grapples with challenges like reduced fish availability, economic losses, and policy neglect. The paper urges policymakers to treat the dried fish sector favourably within Karnataka’s seafood economy, highlighting the potential of dried fish to create livelihoods and enhance nutritional security. Recommendations include the introduction of welfare programs tailored for traditional small-scale fisher communities. Additionally, the academic community is encouraged to initiate studies on nutritional value, processing technology, and the cultural and social roles of dried fish. As Karnataka attracts investments in various sectors, the paper anticipates a shift in market structure and highlights the need for continued educational support to sustain this vital part of the coastal economy.

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The Dynamics of Migration for Myanmar Women in Thailand’s Dried Fish Industry: A Study by Si Thu Lin

Si Thu Lin, a master’s student at the Asian Institute of Technology, recently completed his program under the supervision of Dr. Kyoko Kusakabe with a study on Myanmar women migrant’s work in Thailand’s dried fish industry. In his work with women migrants in Samut Sakhon province of Thailand, Lin explored the challenges and aspirations of these women within the dried fish value chain. He looked at their struggles and identified paths toward empowerment. The dried fish industry emerges as a vital lifeline for migrant women. Lin’s study shed light on the complex factors influencing migrant women’s engagement, the perceived value of dried fish, and the many barriers Myanmar immigrant women face in this industry. Women who own dried fish enterprises face multifaceted challenges: limited access to resources, technology, education, and persistent discrimination. This context hinders gender equality in the sector. His study identified the diverse motivations that led women to become involved in the dried fish business, their resilience in the face of challenging life circumstances, and the allure of a culturally familiar trade. While market demand for dried fish products emerged as a powerful driving force, disparities in material wellbeing among participants persist. Lin’s study highlighted issues like legal status, job perceptions, financial struggles, and limited market expansion, all of which have an impact on migrant women.  Beyond these challenges, however, Lin’s study emphasized the benefits of migrant women’s involvement in dried fish production on their relational and subjective wellbeing. That engagement fostered relationships and expanded social networks. Lin’s study thus lays the groundwork for a more inclusive and empowering narrative within the dried fish industry, urging stakeholders to take proactive measures to create an equitable environment, ensuring these resilient women have equal opportunities to thrive and contribute to the industry.

Thesis PDF

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DFM contributes to FAO Technical Paper 694 Small fish for food security and nutrition on the global importance of small fish

The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations’s (FAO) latest Technical Paper, “Small Fish for Food Security and Nutrition,” spotlights the transformative potential of small fish in nourishing populations worldwide. This comprehensive paper sheds light on the often-overlooked significance of small-scale fisherfolk and the nutritional richness found in small fish species. Traditionally consumed whole, these fish pack a punch with multiple micronutrients vital for health, particularly for vulnerable populations like women and young children.   

The paper’s holistic approach, aligning with food systems frameworks, emphasizes the significance of small fish in nourishing vulnerable populations, marking a pivotal step towards sustainable and inclusive food systems. It delves into various facets – consumption, availability, access, utilization, stability, and sustainability of small fish in food systems, comprehensively addressing stakeholders, interactions, feedback, and outcomes.  

The collaborative efforts behind this paper, led by Maarten Bavinck and Molly Ahern and supported by projects like SmallFishFood, Ikan-F3, Dried Fish Matters, and Fish4Food, exemplify the dedication to addressing global nutritional challenges.  

In the realm of enhancing food security and nutrition, the chapter “The Promise of Dried and Fermented Small Fish Processing,” authored by DFM investigators, including Project Director Professor Derek Johnson, underscores the invaluable role that fish processing, especially drying and fermentation, plays in ensuring widespread access to highly nutritious small fish. These techniques not only facilitate extended storage and wider distribution but also cater to the nutritional needs of remote and underprivileged populations. The chapter highlights the diverse range of products stemming from small fish processing and underscores its economic and cultural significance. The chapter also sheds light on the challenges faced, including increased demand for fish meal and fish oil and inadequate management that pose significant risks for consumers and for the economic viability of small fish production. The chapter stresses the need for substantial public investment in innovative solutions that enhance product quality, improve labour conditions, and bolster supply chain governance to realize the promise of small fish for food security and nutrition.  

For those interested, PDF

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Dried Fish Matters: The e-book

We have the great pleasure of announcing, on behalf of the editors and authors, publication of the full and final version of the first DFM e-book to coincide with World Fisheries Day 2023!

The full book is freely available in two downloadable sizes at https://tbtiglobal.net/dried-fish-matters-e-book/.

We would like to express our deep gratitude to TBTI Global and, in particular, Vesna Kereži for her editorial acumen and Ratana Chuenpagdee for having suggested the idea for the book in the first place.

Exploring the Social Economy of Dried Fish

This eclectic edited volume is the outcome of a project with transdisciplinary co-learning ambitions. A first idea for this work emerged from a series of Dried Fish Matters Partnership transdisciplinary roundtables at the MARE “People and the Sea” Conference in 2021. As we shared our experiences of learning about dried fish value chains, we were energized by the discussion of the various incomplete experiments, partial successes, and unanswered questions within our work, all of which signalled vitality in our research-in-progress. But we sensed regret that much of this exciting yet “messy” work of exploring new categories of knowledge, as we were doing with dried fish, might never make its way into print. Indeed, failures tend to be obscured in academic publications – the false starts and dead ends being relegated to a sentence or two in a “methodology” section, thence entering the black boxes of scientific knowledge. In an attempt to capture the excitement of the collaborative learning process, along with the evocative indeterminacy of the work-in-progress, our group agreed to prepare an experimental volume that could highlight the process – rather than the results – of our investigations into dried fish value chains.

Co-authored, co-editored, collaboratively reviewed and transdisciplinary – in many ways this work fits the template of the scholarly edited volume. At the same time, it embraces the unfinished and inconclusive: in our call for contributions, we invited authors to describe preliminary results, reflect on the research process, invite contemplation by readers, present field notes or raw data, or convey the original words and works of research participants or collaborators. It is also a work that, like the partnership from which it arises, aims to navigate the boundary between academic and practising communities. While some chapters are presented in a relatively familiar academic style, others more enthusiastically take up the invitation to work outside the boundaries of scholarly convention. The book includes photo-essays, recipes, stories, conversations, and even reflections by contributing researchers on their own taste for dried fish. Many of these contributions might be viewed as an intermediate stage of scholarship – more refined than fieldnotes, less so than a journal article – or as essays in the original sense of the unfinished, imperfect “attempt” at addressing a subject, akin to the musical or artistic study or étude.

Co-learning

This book was partly conceived as an experiment in co-learning, as suggested to us by the experience of Too Big to Ignore (TBTI). Co-learning is a term used by TBTI as part of the “transdisciplinary (TD) co-production” framework, defined by Polk (2015) as a form of problem-based learning that includes both practitioners and researchers throughout the knowledge generation process.

This book is the product of several interconnected co-learning processes, including an overarching effort to demystify the learning process at work in our own project on dried fish. The SSHRC Partnership Grants scheme, which has funded this work, is intended to foster mutual co-operation, sharing of intellectual leadership, and the formalization of partnerships in which collaborative learning can occur across different institutions. 

Twenty-six of the individual chapters in this volume are multi-authored, while the remaining chapters also reflect co-learning processes – as attempts to synthesize groups of chapters, analyze information prepared by project research teams, or suggest novel research approaches in conversation with other authors.

The collective editorial work that followed each set of manuscript submissions has also provided an important space for co-learning. The first thing that some of us learned was how much people really like dried fish in South and South-East Asia. Although most of us grew up in countries where dried fish was a common part of the diet, we found that dried fish is of broader importance than we had assumed, and by interacting with the authors of different chapters we were able to encourage different themes to arise. 

Playful writing

We hope that the e-book format, embraced as a polyvocal work that avoids the “gatekeeping” of scholarly apparatus, has allowed new voices to be heard – including those of students, practitioners, and researchers from the Global South, but also those who make a living from dried fish. The section “Food, life, and stories” includes stories from dried fish processors and vendors, an artist and a poet, and recipes shared from the families of researchers themselves. As Ratana Chuenpagdee (one of our editors) commented, this project has demonstrated that research can be playful, creative, and fun. It has provided an opportunity for people to provide their own ideas about why dried fish matters, and to talk about it in their own ways. We did not anticipate when DFM started that the passion expressed by so many consumers for the taste of dried fish would be mirrored in the enthusiasm for the topic by participants in the project. 

Making sense of Dried Fish

The book was not originally planned in the design of the Dried Fish Matters project, but as an emergent initiative it succeeded at catalyzing genuine partnership in ways that surpassed our expectations. It also created a space for academic researchers, at the core of our network, to reinforce community connections. All chapters in this book were peer-reviewed by editors and other colleagues, yet we deliberately framed this process as one of knowledge sharing – and co-learning – rather than evaluation of merit. As we encouraged the inclusion of “raw” field notes, stories, transcripts, and images, the finished work presents a collection of disparate pieces, a great number of which draw on visual forms of representation, which we have assembled into the three main themes of “food, life, and stories”, “describing dried fish value chains”, and “co-learning”.

While our brief synthesis chapters draw attention to the interconnections between the pieces in each of these sections, we hope this book will inspire readers to reflect on how our stories, recipes, essays, and photographs about dried fish fit together in other ways, encouraging us all to think further about the value and challenges present in dried fish value chains – and why, fundamentally, dried fish matters.

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Two new presentations of findings from Bangladesh and the Philippines by DFM PhD students

Two recent presentations by DFM-supported students, Md Mahfuzar Rahman and Jessie Varquez, at major conferences illuminated critical facets of the dried fish industry.

At the American Anthropological Association (AAA) – Canadian Anthropology Society (CASCA) Annual Meeting 2023 in Toronto, Canada, Md Mahfuzar Rahman, a PhD Candidate from the University of Manitoba, addressed a key paradox in dried fish production in Bangladesh. Rahman’s presentation titled “Reconciling quality and affordability: tackling the dual challenge of price escalation and quality assurance in dried fish for enhanced nutrition security in Bangladesh” resonated with participants in the Foodscapes in Transition session. His analysis highlighted the struggles faced by Bangladesh’s dried fish sector to develop strategies to improve quality in the context of soaring costs, thin margins, and socio-economic complexities. Rahman showed how compromises in production methods not only jeopardize the industry’s sustainability but also endanger the health of consumers reliant on this vital nutrition source.

For conference details, AAA-CASCA Annual Meeting 2023

On the other side of the globe, at the 45th International Conference of Ugnayang Pang-Aghamtao (UGAT/Anthropological Association of the Philippines), Jessie Varquez, also a PhD Candidate from the University of Manitoba, presented a paper entitled “Byang sang Danggit (Home of Rabbitfish): local knowledge, coastal ecology, and governmentality in Human-Rabbitfish Relations on Bantayan Island.” Varquez’s presentation delved into the intersections of livelihoods, ecology, and governmentality in the social wellbeing of dried fish actors on the island.

For conference details, the 45th International Conference of Ugnayang Pang-Aghamtao

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Gender Analysis of Dried Fish Consumption Among Myanmar Migrants in Mahachai Subdistrict, Samut Sakhon Province, Thailand: A Study by Nang Lun Kham Synt

Migration is a complex journey, encompassing the physical relocation and the transformation of daily habits and dietary preferences. Amidst the intricate web of adjustments that Myanmar migrants navigate upon settling in Thailand, a study by Nang Lun Kham Synt, a DFM-supported Asian Institute Technology (AIT) graduate, sheds light on an unexpected constant in their lives: dried fish consumption. The research conducted among the Myanmar migrants in Mahachai, Thailand, revealed intriguing insights into their dietary habits and the great significance of dried fish in their daily meals. The study calls for a nuanced approach to understanding and supporting the dietary preferences of migrating communities.

Despite the upheaval caused by migration, both male and female Myanmar migrants continue to embrace dried fish as a staple in their diet, echoing the tastes and flavors of their home country. Consumption of dried fish meals by the migrants serves as a vital component in fostering and sustaining bonds and interaction with their home country and culture. Dried shrimp and fish paste emerged as favourites among the migrants, providing convenience and flavor to their dishes. Intriguingly, while the average quantity consumed by male and female migrants was relatively similar, men emphasized more than women how dried fish evoked feelings of nostalgia and homesickness. While factors like convenience, homesickness, and cultural taste influenced dried fish consumption, surprisingly, nutrition wasn’t the primary consideration for their choice of dried fish. 

For those interested, the thesis can be found at –

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Gender Analysis of Micro and Small-scale Dried Fish Business in Ayeyarwady Region, Myanmar: A Study by Myo Zaw Aung

DFM supported student Myo Zaw Aung’s compelling master’s thesis, completed in 2023 as part of his Master of Science program in Gender and Development Studies at the Asian Institute of Technology (AIT) under the supervision of Dr. Kyoko Kusakabe, provides a comprehensive insight into the gendered dimensions of Myanmar’s shrimp paste industry. His research sheds light on the complexities of gender inequality in the industry. It provides essential insights that can inform policies and initiatives to promote gender equity, enhance livelihoods, and foster sustainable development in Myanmar’s shrimp paste sector and beyond.

In Myanmar, the shrimp paste industry is a key part of the fisheries sector, with women comprising the majority of its workforce. However, gender-based limitations hinder the professional growth and opportunities available to women in this sector, perpetuating a noticeable barrier to women’s economic independence and overall wellbeing. Aung’s study examines the socio-economic factors that sustain this gender disparity. The research findings reveal a complex interplay of gender roles, labour division, market dynamics, capital access, and vulnerability, all of which have profound implications for the industry’s development and sustainability.

For those interested, the thesis is available in the DFM Zotero library.

Photo credits: Myo Zaw Aung

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Unveiling the Gender Dynamics of Prahok Production and Consumption: A Study by Uon Sokmoly

DFM supported student Uon Sokmoly’s compelling master’s thesis, completed in 2023 as part of her Master of Science program in Gender and Development Studies at the Asian Institute of Technology (AIT) under the supervision of Dr. Kyoko Kusakabe, provides a comprehensive insight into the gendered dimensions of Cambodia’s fermented fish paste (Prahok) industry. Her research, Gender Analysis of the Changes in Production and Consumption Patterns of Fermented Fish Paste (Prahok): A Case Study of Women Prahok Makers around Tonle Sap Lake, Cambodia, uncovers the intricate web of gender, tradition, and economic shifts surrounding the production and consumption of prahok.

Cambodia’s rich history is intrinsically linked with its freshwater fish products, serving as both a vital source of nutrition and income for its people. At the heart of this culinary tradition lies fermented fish paste, known as prahok, a cornerstone of Khmer cuisine. Prahok has been a staple in Cambodian households, cherished for its nutritional value and cultural significance. However, this traditional industry is undergoing a transformative shift; the Cambodian government’s recent relocation efforts for communities residing on the lake, coupled with declines in fish yields, the prahok landscape has faced unprecedented challenges.  Women who play a pivotal role in prahok production and consumption are at the center of this change. Sokmoly’s study investigates the multifaceted factors influencing changes in prahok production and consumption, encompassing shifts in food preferences, income generation, gender roles, and cultural norms. Sokmoly’s study serves as an invaluable contribution to the fields of gender studies, cultural preservation, and economic development and underscores the need for gender-responsive policies and support mechanisms to address the evolving challenges faced by women prahok makers.

For those interested, the thesis is available in the DFM Zotero library.