Fresh and dried marine fish are deeply ingrained in the culture and traditions of Kerala, a coastal state in southern India. The state’s proximity to the Arabian Sea, along with its backwaters and numerous rivers, has historically provided abundant access to various fish. This working paper examines the importance of dried fish within the non-vegetarian food basket of households in Kerala, focusing on preferences and consumption patterns among different geographical regions. It also explores the social and economic significance of dried fish, its health benefits, and the factors influencing its consumption. It highlights the role of dried fish in Kerala’s culinary traditions and its prominence in the local diet, providing insights into the extent of fish consumption and its cultural relevance in the state.
In April 2024, Colleen Cranmer, one of our dedicated researchers and a PhD candidate at the School of International Development and Global Studies, University of Ottawa, attended the São Paulo School of Advanced Science on Transdisciplinarity for Transformative Change (SPSAS). This intensive training workshop brought together 80 graduate students and postdoctoral fellows from 31 countries to the charming town of São Luiz de Paraitinga in southeastern Brazil.
Here is what Colleen had to say about her experience:
“In April of this year, I had the privilege of attending the São Paulo School of Advanced Science on Transdisciplinarity for Transformative Change (SPSAS).
We spent two weeks engaging in classes led by scholars, policymakers, practitioners, and indigenous leaders, alongside field trips to research institutions and traditional communities. We also participated in hands-on mentored activities in which we worked in groups to co-design research proposals using the principles of transformative and transdisciplinary change. What made this workshop truly unique was the cultural engagement with the small town we were based in. São Luiz de Paraitinga is a small town located in the State of São Paulo. The rich history of the town can be felt as you walk through the cobblestone streets and take in the beautiful architecture. In the evenings, SPSAS organized a variety of cultural activities put on by the local community such as capoeira, maracatu, Brazilian classical singing, Orquestra de Violas, and a movie screening of ‘The Territory’.
Field visit to learn about agroforestry (Photo credit: Colleen Cranmer)
For our group work, we were divided into small groups with those conducting similar research. I was initially surprised I was placed in the ‘economic’ group. Given my focus on dried fish research, I had expected to join the fisheries group. I quickly realized that this was an excellent opportunity to experience transdisciplinarity in practice. Since my work extends to value chain and economic livelihood production, this was a chance to shift my fisheries focus, to learn how other natural resource value chains are experiencing and adapting to issues. Although our group shared many similarities in the value chains we study (overexploitation, environmental change, marginalized actors), we sometimes struggled to reach a consensus on framing our proposal. Nevertheless, we saw in all our cases the potential for transformative change by co-creating with communities ideas of futures where alternatives to market-based livelihoods are explored and questioning the need for commodification and upscaling products.
I have taken away a lot from my time at the workshop. The transdisciplinary nature of the work group has been challenging and motivating, it makes me excited for future collaborations in my field once I complete my PhD. The transformative change aspect has given me so much to think about within my own research and how I want to move forward as a researcher. Lastly, the connections I made with the organizing team and participants were really special, with so many diverse backgrounds and experiences, it was incredible to be brought together to form an insightful and caring community of people all working towards similar goals.”
Colleen’s experiences at SPSAS highlight the importance of cross-disciplinary collaboration and cultural engagement in driving transformative change. Her reflections provide a valuable perspective on how such experiences can shape and enhance one’s research approach and professional journey. We are proud of Colleen’s participation and look forward to seeing how these insights will influence her work within the Dried Fish Matters project and beyond.
DFM co-applicant, Dr. Emdad Haque, is lead editor of a new book titled “RED ALERT! Non-Communicable Diseases, Dietary Habits and Lifestyle in Bangladesh”. The book offers a profound exploration into Bangladesh’s shifting health dynamics through the lens of the epidemiological transition. This publication stands as a testament to the interdisciplinary approach needed to tackle complex health challenges.
Drawing from nationwide empirical surveys, the book links non-communicable diseases (NCDs) to dietary patterns, physical activity levels, and lifestyle factors across urban, semi-urban, and rural populations. Among the key findings are the alarming rise in hypertension and diabetes prevalence, outpacing neighbouring countries, and the striking correlation between urbanization and NCD prevalence. Noteworthy is the disparity in NCD burden between rural and urban populations, underscoring the urgent need for targeted interventions.
One of the noteworthy contributions to the book comes from the Dried Fish Matters (DFM) funded PhD student Sami Naim Farook, whose chapters in the book provide insightful examinations of the health status of the Indigenous Garo people in Dhaka, revealing lower diabetes rates but increasing hypertension, tobacco, alcohol consumption, and obesity among Garo women. In chapter eight of the book, Farook and colleagues highlight the prevalence of overweight and obesity among school-aged children, particularly in urban areas like Dhaka, reflecting sedentary lifestyles and unhealthy dietary habits. In chapter eleven, Farook and his co-authors examine the health impacts of shifting dietary patterns, such as a decline in grain consumption and the rise in meat consumption, and recommend holistic approaches to address the emerging challenges of non-communicable diseases in Bangladesh.
Reference:
Haque, C. E., Ahsan, G. U., & Islam, M. A. (Eds.). (2024). RED ALERT! Non-Communicable Diseases, Dietary Habits and Lifestyle in Bangladesh (First). The University Press Limited.
The International Collective in Support of Fishworkers (ICSF)’s journal Yemaya recently published a summary of highlights of DFM’s participation in the 8th Global Conference on Gender in Aquaculture and Fisheries (GAF-8) in Kochi, India, in November 2022. The article, co-authored by Derek Johnson, Nikita Gopal, Kyoko Kusakabe, Tara Nair, and Mirza Taslima Sultana and titled “The Gendered Economy of Dried Fish”, underscores the often-overlooked contributions of women in Asia’s dried fish economy.
The three DFM panels began with two presentations that summarized theoretical approaches to gender taken within the project. The remaining 13 presentations focused on different empirical cases of gender in social economies of dried fish from Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, West Bengal, Gujarat, Kerala, Myanmar, and Cambodia. Discussions at GAF-8 underscored the pivotal role of gender and feminist perspectives in understanding the Asian dried fish economy. By applying feminist theory, the DFM project aims to tease apart the intricate webs of gendered labor, power dynamics, and structural inequalities shaping dried fish production and trade. It seeks to amplify the voices of women, whose contributions often go unrecognized.
The article points to the complexities of dried fish value chains from a gender perspective, highlighting the significant roles women play. The gendered nature of the dried fish economy extends beyond production to consumption, with gendered inequality present across the value chain. Despite their indispensable contributions, women often face barriers such as limited access to space, resources, and decision-making processes. These structural conditions perpetuate gender inequalities within the sector and must be a priority consideration for interventions to empower women and other marginalized participants in social economies of dried fish.
The 12th Biennial Conference of the Indian Society for Ecological Economics (INSEE) recently concluded at BML Munjal University, Haryana. Among the standout contributions was made by the Dried Fish Matters India team, whose participation in the conference illuminated the nuanced landscape of the dried fish sector in the country. In a panel discussion titled “Blue Fears and Blue Hopes: The Social Economy of Dried Fish in India,” the team presented findings from diverse regions – Kerala, Gujarat, Maharashtra, and Karnataka. Dr. Nikita Gopal, representing Kerala, highlighted the impacts of natural and human factors on dried fish processors, showcasing their resilience amidst challenges. Dr. Tara Nair of the Gujarat team discussed Gujarat’s unusual situation of being a top marine fish producer in a predominantly vegetarian state. The discussion emphasized the need for inclusive fisheries policies to support small-scale dried fish processors vulnerable to exploitation by more powerful economic actors.
Maharashtra’s challenges, including infrastructure developments and encroachment, were explored by Abhilasha Sharma. Increased online retailing in Maharashtra points to evolving opportunities for dried fish processors. Meanwhile, Prasanna Surathkal shed light on the impact of infrastructure and tourism projects on Karnataka’s coast, underscoring both challenges and positive strides, such as the establishment of a collective producer enterprise. The Dried Fish Matters India team’s brief but impactful presence at the INSEE Conference reflects a commitment to understanding the intricacies of the dried fish sector and advocating for its sustainable growth. Their contributions contribute to opportunities for collaboration to inform policy, governance, and development in this vital industry.
In an October 23 article in The Telegraph, Shakuntala Haraksingh Thilsted and Ismahane Elouafi argue for a transformative approach to global food production. The authors point to precarious human dependency on just six staple crops that account for 75 percent of the world’s plant-derived energy intake. The war in Ukraine has illustrated the risk of relying on such a limited food supply. Supply constraints in key staples have increased global food insecurity and led to a surge in malnutrition rates. Thilsted and Elouafi advocate for a shift towards diversification, urging nations to move beyond conventional food sources. The authors argue that finding alternative sources of high-quality nutrition is not an option but a necessity.
Thilsted and Elouafi propose a shift in global food supplies, advocating for the diversification beyond the traditional ‘big three’ crops – rice, maize, and wheat, and suggest considering overlooked but nutrient-rich and climate-resilient crops like quinoa and millets. They also advocate for adopting biofortified crops, such as orange-fleshed sweet potatoes and iron-enriched beans, to address micronutrient deficiencies. Thilsted and Elouafi highlight the potential of aquatic foods, with over 3,700 species offering a wealth of vitamins and essential fatty acids. The article highlights the urgent need to rethink and reinforce food systems by embracing a diverse range of underused, nutritious alternatives. These include, of course, dried fish.
The recently released Dried Fish Matters (DFM) Working Paper 13, “The Dried Fish Processors of Karnataka,” looks at the dynamics of Karnataka’s dried fish processing industry. The report is rich with figures that summarize the Karnataka Team’s data while reflecting on the implications of their findings about dried fish processing in the state. Led by researchers Amalendu Jyotishi, Ramachandra Bhatta, and Prasanna Surathkal, it sheds light on a tradition deeply rooted in Karnataka’s coastal heritage. The report is based on structured interviews with 271 processors in the state’s three coastal districts. It discusses the intricacies of dried fish production in relation to seasonality, geographical variation, primary species involved, and the crucial role played by women. Women constitute a staggering 95 percent of the surveyed processors! Mangaluru emerged as the primary production site, and anchovies and mackerel were the predominant species, constituting a substantial share of the total dried fish production volume. The study found dried fish producers to be predominantly necessity-driven entrepreneurs and shed light on processors’ socioeconomic challenges that often hinder their businesses’ growth.
Despite its historical significance and critical role in marginalized communities’ livelihoods, the dried fish processing segment grapples with challenges like reduced fish availability, economic losses, and policy neglect. The paper urges policymakers to treat the dried fish sector favourably within Karnataka’s seafood economy, highlighting the potential of dried fish to create livelihoods and enhance nutritional security. Recommendations include the introduction of welfare programs tailored for traditional small-scale fisher communities. Additionally, the academic community is encouraged to initiate studies on nutritional value, processing technology, and the cultural and social roles of dried fish. As Karnataka attracts investments in various sectors, the paper anticipates a shift in market structure and highlights the need for continued educational support to sustain this vital part of the coastal economy.
Si Thu Lin, a master’s student at the Asian Institute of Technology, recently completed his program under the supervision of Dr. Kyoko Kusakabe with a study on Myanmar women migrant’s work in Thailand’s dried fish industry. In his work with women migrants in Samut Sakhon province of Thailand, Lin explored the challenges and aspirations of these women within the dried fish value chain. He looked at their struggles and identified paths toward empowerment. The dried fish industry emerges as a vital lifeline for migrant women. Lin’s study shed light on the complex factors influencing migrant women’s engagement, the perceived value of dried fish, and the many barriers Myanmar immigrant women face in this industry. Women who own dried fish enterprises face multifaceted challenges: limited access to resources, technology, education, and persistent discrimination. This context hinders gender equality in the sector. His study identified the diverse motivations that led women to become involved in the dried fish business, their resilience in the face of challenging life circumstances, and the allure of a culturally familiar trade. While market demand for dried fish products emerged as a powerful driving force, disparities in material wellbeing among participants persist. Lin’s study highlighted issues like legal status, job perceptions, financial struggles, and limited market expansion, all of which have an impact on migrant women. Beyond these challenges, however, Lin’s study emphasized the benefits of migrant women’s involvement in dried fish production on their relational and subjective wellbeing. That engagement fostered relationships and expanded social networks. Lin’s study thus lays the groundwork for a more inclusive and empowering narrative within the dried fish industry, urging stakeholders to take proactive measures to create an equitable environment, ensuring these resilient women have equal opportunities to thrive and contribute to the industry.
